Thanks Everybody!

Hi All,

We're not out of the woods yet, but your thoughts and prayers have made it to Palestine. Here's a message from Daoud:

Dear friends of Tent of Nations all over the world,

Thank you so much for your prayers and for the advocacy letters you sent on behalf of us to your government, Embassies and to the Israeli officials and government. It is wonderful to see how many people in the world are committed to work for justice and do care about us and about the Tent of Nations.

Since Thursday, the day we received the nine demolishing orders and until today, Monday the 31^st of May 10.00 pm, we are still under pressure hoping that the Army won’t come and destroy our structures. Sunday and Monday were two long days for us, but thank God no destruction or dismantling of any developments or renovations took place.

It is wonderful to see how many people came to visit us yesterday and today to show their solidarity with us. We pray and hope that things will change and the sun of justice will rise again.

Our lawyer appealed to stop the demolishing orders, he sent the Appeal by Fax to the Israeli military authority and got the confirmation that it was received. Our situation will continue to be critical and our structures will continue to be under threat of destruction until we receive a paper from the military authority says that our Appeal is being accepted.

The letters of advocacy that were sent to political officials in many countries and the fast reaction of our attorney who immediately challenged the demolition order in the Israeli court are the two strategies we are following to challenge and stop the demolishing orders. With your prayers and support, we are sure that we will succeed.

It is a big support for the Tent of Nations to have so many friends all over the world who are standing against this injustice. Please remember that Faith, love and hope are keeping our spirit high and are giving us the strength to continue this just struggle and we will never give up.

Please forward my E-mail to all your friends.

Blessings and Salaam,

Daoud

Thank you for your continued support.
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What I really care about....

Dear Friends,

I'm sharing an e-mail with you I received on Thursday May 27th around 5PM. It's a message from Daoud Nassar and the Tent of Nations. As I write this the farm is experiencing great trauma. Please read and keep the farm and the family in your thoughts and prayers.

Dear Friends of Tent of Nations all over the world,

Today at 2.00 pm in the afternoon, 2 officers form the Israeli Civil Administration guarded by Israeli soldiers came to our farm and gave us NINE demolishing orders for nine ( structures) we built in the last years without a building permit from the Israeli Military Authority. The demolishing orders are for: tents, animals shelters, metal roof in front of both old houses, the restrooms (Shelters) , a water cistern, a metal container and 2 underground renovated cave structures. One officer was writing the demolishing orders and the other was taking pictures with two cameras, Israeli soldiers were following them everywhere and pointing their guns on us.

The demolishing orders were written in Hebrew and I refused to sign receiving them. We have 3 days only to react against those demolishing orders. The timing for delivering the demolishing orders was plant properly and purposely on Thursday, in order to make it difficult for us to try to stop those orders by the Israeli court within 3 days, because of the Jewish weekend (Friday and Saturday). The idea is to make it impossible for us to act quickly. I contacted our Lawyer and he will write an opposition and send it to the military court on Sunday morning. We hope to get a paper from the court through our Lawyer on Sunday morning to stop the demolishing orders.

We would like to ask you to be prepared and alert for actions, if anything might happen. We will keep you updated and will guide you for actions but please forward this E-mail to your friends.

PLEASE be prepared for actions… Thank you for all your solidarity and support.

They are trying to destroy our spirit, but we are determined to resist and overcome the Evil with GOOD and justice will prevail.

Blessings and Salaam,

Daoud

I'll keep everyone updated as I receive information. I've included photos of what is potentially being destroyed. Thank you.

Wales

This past Saturday I was fortunate enough to travel to Wales! First we visited the Museum of Welsh Life. On the grounds are over forty reconstructed historic cottages/ structures from all over Wales. The oldest cottage was originally built in the 1500s. You can also enjoy Bara bread with butter hot from the bakery circa 1900 (that's the bakery, not the bread). The interpretation and preservation the Museum is doing is incredible. This national park ranger was impressed.

After the Museum we were off to Cardiff Castle. It was a really pretty castle, and our guide was fantastic! The mote surrounding the castle is one of the oldest in wales, though the actual castle as it is seen today was mostly constructed in the nineteenth century. The eccentric architect/ designer of the castle was devoted to the mid evil era and parrots. Those influences make for an interesting design scheme. It also helps that his client, the royalty of wales, had enough money to throw in the mote (they didn't but they could have).

It was of course raining on Saturday. After touring the castle and climbing the mote tower we warmed ourselves at the Old Library with tea. Then it was back to Oxford and back to the books.

Enjoy this pictures!

Two weeks to Change my Life

As some of you know, I spent the last two weeks of my break from studies in Palestine. I was working on a peace farm, Tent of Nations, outside of Bethlehem. The farm offers a variety of programs for the local Palestinian community, including a summer camp for children and training and workshops for the women of the local Palestinian village, that offer alternatives to the violent occupation. I learned so much there about myself and the greater Palestinian/ Israeli conflict. I would like to share some of what I learned with you, reader.

I should begin by saying I met so many wonderful people, both Israeli and Palestinian. Also, Palestine is not recognized as a state. I was technically in the West Bank, known internationally as disputed territory. Israel no longer controls the region, and the Palestinian government is having major problems establishing order and generating infrastructure. Although Palestine is a beautiful country the cities there are modified slums. They lack proper plumbing and trash collection. There is limited access to water in the region.

My first lesson was in regards to the Israeli government, and it was a lesson I learned over and over again on my trip. The Israeli government has a complete disregard for human rights (Please note the distinction between government and citizens). Upon leaving London I was strip searched by El Al, the Israeli airline. From Jerusalem to Bethlehem I passed through a check point. Because I had an American passport the Israeli soldiers didn't even check my passport, whereas I passed Palestinians who would be in line for hours just to get to work.

One day I visited Aida refugee camp in Bethlehem. Before entering the camp we toured the wall around the camp. Israel is actually building a three story wall across the country to separate Israel and Palestine. It is an incredible feat and really unbelievable to see. The year I was born the Berlin wall fell, people said "Never Again." When I was fifteen another wall began being constructed. The wall is effectually turning the West Bank into a cage.

At Aida camp I was fortunate enough to visit with one of the residents. Her family has been in the camp since 1948 when it was founded. For their first ten years there they lived in tents until huts could be constructed. Today she lives in a flat with plumbing. She told unbelievable stories. From her I learned the only justice allowed to Palestinians is a military court. In these courts there is no jury and one judge makes a ruling. The judge can site evidence that is not privy to the lawyers or the defendant. Often thirteen year old boys are sentenced in these courts for "throwing stones". A Palestinian child can be sentenced to up to twenty years in an adult prison for allegedly "throwing stones". I asked my host why these children were put in prison with adults. She told me that, internationally, it would be illegal to establish prisons for children, so they are placed in penitentiaries with adults.

The situation in the West Bank is dire. People have grand misconceptions of the war waging there now. Palestine is not a physically dangerous place to be. Bombs do not fall and police maintain some semblance of order. The war waging there is a psychological war. The sixty-second anniversary of the Israeli state was celebrated April twentieth. For sixty-two years Palestinians have been abused physically and psychologically by the Israeli government. I don't know how much longer a people can take that kind of mental battering. It's beyond an occupation; the West Bank is essentially a cage.

As noted above, Palestine is a really beautiful country. In my last days there I was fortunate enough to hike the Wadi Qalt. It is a beautiful river system running from Ramallah to Jericho. The farm itself sits a top a hill with a view to the Mediterranean. Two weeks that changed my life.

TRAVELING!

For the past three weeks I have been out of the country, and I don't just mean the US of A. I've been jetting around Europe. Friday March 10th I met one of my dearest friends in Germany! She is working there for a year. We explored southern Germany. One of the highlights was Heidelberg. There was so much to do there! My favorites were the Schloss, or castle, and Philosopher's Way. Luckily for us the Schloss and Philosopher's Way were on opposite hills. We did a lot of hiking in Heidelberg. Pictured first is Philosopher's Way.

Mid-way through the week I departed Germany for Italy! I met my cousins in Bologna. They were wonderful hosts, taking me all around the city. The food was also UNBELIEVABLE. Between my cousins cooking and a wonderful evening out at an awesome restaurant my stomach grew a lot. Which was good, because I was soon off to Lanciano to spend time with my Grandfather's brother and his children. We ate and ate and ate, and when we weren't eating we were planning on what to eat next. You can understand why my stomach needed the extra space. It was glorious. I also managed to hike around the village where my Grandfather was raised; you can see it pictured second. Being there is just like being home.

I came back to Oxford just two days before I set off for Barcelona. Barcelona was beautiful. The Spanish culture is really wonderful. I was there with a friend, and we decided to take a bike tour the first day... best idea ever. It really helped us get oriented and learn about the city. One of my favorite parts of that trip was Park Guell. It's a park designed by the famous architect Gaudi. The last picture is a view of the park. We also had a wonderful dinner at Les Quinze Mity. Since all of the chefs there are in training it was gourmet quailty food on the cheap.

Wednesday I'm jetting off again for two weeks. In the mean time my friends and I (the few still in Oxford) are having a little Easter dinner. It's a potluck event, and I volunteered lasagna. What ever you are doing tomorrow I hope you have a safe and happy Easter. I'm sure the bunny will be good to all of us this year. Sending all my love from the 'shire.

Hump Day Eighth Week

Good evening from the 'shire. I've been super busy these last few weeks. Some of the highlights:

- February 13th I went to Stratford-upon-Avon. It was pretty disappointing. It might possibly be the town where Shakespeare was maybe possibly born and raised. Well, that he was born there is really all historians know for sure. The rest of the story is implied and a little hazy; that's why it's a little disheartening for tourists. It kind of feels like you're being tricked into a Shakespeare narrative that is not supported by any primary sources. I did get a sweet picture with the live Shakespeare statue though.

- February 19th my brother arrived for a short visit. We had a BLAST! I kept him pretty busy in Oxford, then we ventured to London for a football match. The game was Fulham v. Birmingham City. The score was 2-1 Fulham. We were rooting for Fulham, so it was really thrilling. Also, Fulham has had a rough season, so it was one of the first games in a while where they've scored. It heightened the excitement.

- February 25th I had my last British Women Writers tutorial. I was so sad to see it end. My tutor was wonderful; I learned SO much! Both of my tutorials have ended (Philosophy ended yesterday).

- March 4th my parents arrived; they just left today. We had a fabulous time. I really wore them out between running them around Oxford and a day trip to London. I am so glad they came to visit; I just wish they could have stayed longer. In London we started at the Eye which was REALLY cool. Then we watched parliament for a bit. From Parliament we crossed the street to Westminster Abbey. We had a wonderful audio tour there. From there we took the tube to the reconstructed Globe Theater and crossed the Millennium Bridge to St. Paul's Cathedral. We ended the day at Harrods. While they were here I preformed Beethoven's Mass in C and his Choral Fantasia with the OSUC. I'm so glad they got to see me sing again.

- March 6th I had my last OPUS excursion for this term to Bath. Bath was awesome. Before we got to Bath we stopped at a typical Cotswold village. I'm still confused as to why the Cotswolds are famous, but they are really pretty as you can see in the picture. The Roman Baths themselves are pretty cool, but there is also a Cathedral and a bazillion other museums to explore. I started at the baths. I even went to the Pump Room and got myself a glass of the water... it tasted gross. Then I went to the Bath Cathedral, it was beautiful. Next I found a great free gallery. The Victorian Art gallery was small, but a real gem. I jetted into the Jane Austen Center before ending the day at the Fashion Museum. The Austen Center was actually located in one of the four residences of Ms. Austen from her time spent in Bath. The center did a great job of reviewing Jane's life, and they didn't shy away from the fact that Jane actually didn't like her time in Bath (which was nice). The Fashion Museum was super cool. It included Bod Dylan's outfit from the cover of "Freewheelin'" and an exhibit on shoes. We all know how I feel about shoes.

Tomorrow I'm seeing Judy Dench in a "Midsummer Night's Dream", and Friday I'm heading to Germany. It should be great fun!

The Oxford Union

The Oxford Union is one the multitude of societies available for Oxford students to join. In an earlier post I talked a little bit about it. It is a Union distinct from the University, and was founded in the mid nineteenth century when Oxford students were censored. Today, it is still a place open to opinions and student inquiries. Weekly, it holds a debate with international speakers. The Union also invites international guests to enlighten student audiences.

Last week the debate was titled "This House* would rather be unwell in Britain than in America". It was a fascinating heath care debate. I came to the conclusion that the two sides (those who prefer the British system and those who prefer the American system) were really comparing apples and oranges. Yes there is more technological innovation in a private system, but is heath care a universal right? It doesn't really work as a compound sentence. I came to the conclusion that I would rather have a chronic illness in Britain, but if I had a progressive disease that needed experimental treatment I would rather be in the U.S. I think my generation will be able to take the positives from both systems and combine them into real health care reform; that's my hope anyway.

Last Friday I saw the speaker of the House of Commons, John Barcrow, at the Union. It was cool to see him in person, and the question and answer portion was fabulous. He was very funny off the cuff. Also, the quality of audience questions was excellent. That's the best part about Union functions. One is surrounded by twenty-somethings who, as I do, care about current political and social issues; not just care but informed young people. Oxford is just a different kind of place; in a good way.

*"This House" refers to those present in the Union debating.

Walking Tour of Oxford

Saturday was wet, foggy and cold. Naturally the perfect day for a Walking Tour of Oxford. Despite the weather, it was nice, but it was mostly information I already knew. We started in front of Balliol and Trinity Colleges. Balliol and Merton Colleges vie for the title of oldest college in Oxford. There isn't an exact date for either founding, but both started around the same time in the mid-13th century. Trinity College claims to be the college with the oldest buildings because the College was built around the remains of one of the old monastic communities from the 8th century.

From Broad St. we moved down Turl Street, viewing Exeter and Lincoln Colleges. Across from Exeter College is Jesus College. We went into Jesus College. In the Hall there is a large portrait of Queen Elizabeth I; the college was founded during her reign. Here we talked about living in College and various aspects of the University system in Oxford. Forty-eight prime ministers of England graduated from Oxford University; most of them were president of the Oxford Union during their schooling.

From Jesus College we moved to the Bodleian Library, Divinity School, and the Sheldonian Theater. I've already toured the Bodleian, but I did learn what the inscription is over the door of the Divinity School. It's a New Testament verse in Greek. From here we returned to Broad Street, passed the History Faculty Library and continued down Hollywell Street. We turned down Turf Street and made our way down the ally to Turf Tavern. A portion of the original city wall is still preserved right next to Turf Tavern. It's the wall the Saxons constructed in the 8th century around the time of the city's founding.

Then we wiggled through St. Helen's Passage and ended up under the Bridge of Sighs. We stopped here and talked a bit about Hertford, not only my College but also renowned for being the friendliest college in Oxford. We walked towards St. Mary the Virgin University Church and the Radcliffe Camera. Opposite All Souls College is Brasenose College (the Camera sits in between the two). George Washington's great-great grandfather attended Brasenose. He had an outstanding debt for school books for decades until a group of New York lawyers paid the fee in the 1800s.

We crossed High Street and maneuvered past Oriel College. This is the area of the city where the Rhodes Scholar housing is. Our guide pointed out Bill Clinton's room during his first term as a Rhodes scholar; she also reminded us scholars are chosen not just for their academic abilities but also their outstanding character traits such as trustworthiness and truthfulness. Everyone on the tour seemed to take a piss* at that. From there we moved in to the Christ Church College Meadows. These meadows were preserved in the 1950s when a road was proposed right through the middle of the wonderful open space in the center of the city. Christ Church bought the land and saved it. Since we were overlooking Christ Church our guide of course talked about "Alice in Wonderland" and Lewis Carol, graduate of Christ Church. Alice was the daughter of the Dean of the College when Carol attended. The guide also noted Christ Church Cathedral. The Cathedral, originally a monastic worship center from the 8th century, was proposed by Cardinal Wolsey, the founder of Christ Church. He actually wanted to demolish the structure and build a grander worship space. He fell from power though, and when Henry VIII endowed the College and finished what Wolsey began he did not construct a new chapel. Thankfully it was saved, because it is the site of St. Frideswide's nunnery.

Then we went into Merton College, probably the oldest college in Oxford. The first Warden was recorded in 1267. The Merton College Chapel windows are made from pre-reformation stained glass. Most of the windows were destroyed during the reformation, but the Merton College Chapel was able to save its windows. It also has the oldest library in England, some of the books are still chained to the shelf, and the oldest quad in England. At the memorial on the campus dedicated to Merton students who fought in WWII our guide explained the conspiracy theory that Churchill and Hitler had an agreement. Churchill wouldn't bomb Hindenburg if Hitler didn't bomb Oxford. Neither city was bombed during the war, even though Oxford would be very easy to bomb since it is right along the Thames and Cherwell Rivers.

The tour ended at the Covered Market. It was about lunch time, so I went to Pie Minister in the market and got a Mushroom pie. It was magnificent! I was leary of the mushy peas at first, but they too were delicious with just a hint of mint.

Yay for rainy Saturday walking tours!

*Note: 'take a piss' - one of my favorite British expressions. It's not derogatory, it means to 'make fun of' or 'laugh at'.

Broughton Manor and Warwick Castle

Today was brilliant. I awoke before the sun to get some predawn work done on my philosophy paper before the OPUS excursion. This was the day we Oxford exchange students were journeying to Broughton Manor and Warwick Castle. At 10 AM we gathered outside of Hertford College and off we went into the sunny emerald pasture.

It was bright and cold today, but luckily the sun shone on our merry band all day. The first stop, Broughton Manor, is still inhabited by Lord and Lady Saye. The Great Hall of the Manor dates to the 13th century. William Wykeham, founder of New College, was one of the original owners of the Manor. Between the 17th century plaster mantel and oriental wall paper in the King Room and the tiny spiral stair case, which was the only staircase in the home for centuries, one is not sure where to look first. The Queen Anne room refers to the 17th century queen of King James I. The King room bedded both King James I (17th century) and King Edward VII (19th century). Lord Saye was a parliamentarian during the Civil War and held secret meetings in the upper most room of his manor. Cannon balls were found in the large mote that surrounds the manor from the civil war when the manor was attacked by royalists. Presently, the manor is not heated, even though the family still resides there!

After a satisfying lunch on the bus we had nearly arrived at Warwick Castle. Warwick Castle is very different from Broughton Manor. Instead of a guided tour we were given maps and allowed to roam about the castle grounds. It is much more commercialized than Broughton. I was disappointed to learn that the castle is owned by Madame Tussauds. It did explain the creepy wax figures adorning the castle though. The most discouraging aspect of the castle was the lack of historical information. Even when there was a minimal amount of interpretation one was unsure what in each room was real or reproduction. My time a President Lincoln's Cottage has made me into somewhat of a purest. I'd rather see an empty space than reproduced furniture from all periods in the same room. It was still really fun, and because it was so cheeky we got some pretty funny pictures with the wax figurines. The best part of the castle was the view from the towers. In addition to the castle mound, the oldest part of the castle dating to the 11th century, Guy's tower and Caesar's tower offer wonderful views of the English country side and the magnificent cathedral in the town of Warwick.

By 6 PM we were safely back in Oxford, and I attended to the end of that philosophy paper. As stated above, today was brilliant, absolutely brilliant.

Budding Romance

I should have titled this piece budding romances, but I wanted to you, reader, to be fooled for just a moment. On Monday I retrieved my bicycle (it's pictured above, the beautiful purple little roadster). It has revolutionized my travel. I zip around Oxford now in no time at all. My bicycle and I have a strong bond already.

Today I also returned to the Gloucester Green Market. Since it wasn't snowing the vendors were out in force. I gleaned some beautiful eggplants and finally found some affordable nuts. For some reason nuts and trail mixes are very pricey in the stores here. I found a dry goods vendor who sold them for a reasonable amount.

There was also a cheese vendor at the market. I can foresee a strong relationship forming with my cheese monger. I went a little crazy and got three kinds of cheese, a French mozzarella, a Gruyere (also French), and finally an English red Windsor. You can see them pictured with my grapes. I think the cheese seller and my butcher, John David, will be competing for my affection. Monday I went to see John and got a mozzarella, sun dried tomato, and basil veggie sausage. It was AMAZING.

As Ogden Nash would say, "Food, Food Glorious Food." Obviously the way to my heart is through my stomach after a short bike ride into city center.

"Meandering leads to perfection." - Lao Tzu

Tonight I invite you to walk with me down one of my favorite pavements in Oxford, North Hinskey Lane.

At first North Hinskey Lane does not look too promising, especially on a damp gray day as today. As we begin our stroll there is a McDonald's on our left and some power lines on the right, but almost immediately that is behind us and the first little cottage, "Frog Cottage", appears on the left. It is gated and grassy; a stream lulls behind it. Next comes the "Old Manor House". This house is large and made from brick, stucco, and stone. It is a combination of Tudor, Gothic, and Victorian construction. It is also gated, and the back of the house faces the road. Its grandeur can only be imagined from its illusive broad side. Before we come upon Westminster hamlet the North Hinskey Nature Reserve appears. It is on a hillside containing benches and paths to explore. Perhaps we will traverse those paths on a brighter day. Coming upon Westminster we first hear children playing in the school yard of the village school. The laughter bounces off the stone bridge across from the school. The bridge marks an entrance to the expansive St. George Park. We will come back to the bridge later, literally.

Just across from the bridge is a large manor hidden by a half brick wall and tall shrubbery. The sign reads "Old School". Is it a school, or a residence? Just around the bend from the "Old School" lies a very old looking church. A small graveyard sits in front of the church. Some of the headstones read 1835 and later; the rest are illegible. Across from the church sits the "Cottage Farm". Its bright red door matches the red letter box built into the stone fence surrounding the home. Next comes "Ferry Cottage". It is perhaps my favorite structure on the entire road. The stone is just a bit darker and a trimmed climbing vine outlines the doors and windows. As the name implies, a stream flows through the back yard of "Ferry Cottage".

Just beyond "Ferry Cottage" sits "The Fishes". It is a traditional public house, but it seems slightly swankier. A board outside the venue invites us in to "enjoy a warm Sunday roast". Opposite "The Fishes" is the "Ruskin Cottage". It is a very historic cottage, and marks the start of a small gathering of old cottages. These cottages are stone and still have thatched roofs made of straw. The "Ruskin Cottage" seems very inviting with soft green trim. One of the other little cottages seems more like a green house; hanging baskets adorn the front and plants fill the sills of the windows. The yard is a gated unruly mass of plants and two actual green houses. Next we come upon "Brook House", a regal estate, immediately followed by "Sunny Brook". The bright red holly and yellow Cyprus plants that adorn "Sunny Brook" liven the journey. On this bleak day it is a welcome splash of color. In the distance we can see the road coming to an end at the Oxford R.F.C. also known as The Oxford Rugby Complex. Here we turn around.

We return to the stone bridge across from the "Old School". Crossing the bridge we enter St. George's Park. It's so wet that the path through the fields and tufts of trees is surrounded by water. The land is completely saturated and flooded. We pass an old man walking his dog and a young girl running. We come to another bridge, a more modern bridge. Following the new bridge we encounter an extended family of squirrels. They are feverishly searching for nuts which are now most likely hopelessly submerged. Finally we come to the end of the wooded aisle. We are deposited onto a main thoroughfare in an industrial area. We turn onto a small paved path returning us to St. George's Park. Before we know it we're back at my flat, glad to feel the warmth of the interior after the damp jaunt.

I hope you enjoyed North Hinskey Lane as much as I do. I'll try and take some pictures next time I'm down that way, but for know this literary picture will have to do.

Lake Front Flat

Hello dear friends! I have just completed my first Oxford paper! It was titled "Domestic Virtue: Jane Austen's Nationalism." Thank goodness I finished it. Tomorrow I defend it. My Philosophy paper is due Saturday, so tomorrow it's back to the books.

Monday evening I attended my first rehearsal with the Oxford University Student Choir (OUSC for short). It was wonderful and a great reminder of my affection for large choral singing. On March 9th we will perform Beethoven's Mass in C and his Choral Fantasy. They are magnificent pieces.

Although Sunday was a beautiful day with lots of sun (as the pictures in the last post represent) the past few days have been wet; very wet. This morning I awoke to snow which quickly turned to rain as the day continued. The rivers and streams here are already overflowing, literally. As the wetness continued, the park next to my flat has gradually become a large lake (as pictured); complete with swans.

Today I was very happy to learn that I acquired a bike. This is useful considering the distance to my Philosophy tutor's house. Monday I retrieve the bike, so I will not have it Saturday for the long journey to his home. I think it will prove very useful this semester though.

Two food notes: 1. On Monday I tried a 'jacket potato.' I had high expectations; I was thinking it would be something like a twice baked potato. No, no, all it is is a once baked potato. That's it. You order toppings for it; a little disappointing to say the least.
2. Today I had Millie's Cookies, famous in Oxford. The were wonderful. I had a white chocolate raspberry and an orange chocolate chip. As cookie extraordinaires know cookies have a certain density, and Millie's Cookies were just the right amount of chewiness without being mushy. They are an expensive indulgence but well worth it; especially on a day when a paper is due.

I am exhausted; hitting the sack after a rigorous day of academics.

The Tutorial System

I feel I should take a moment to explain the tutorial system. As my tutor today said, "Oxford is one of the only places that still utilizes the tutorial, because it is a lot of work." There are three terms, the Michaelmas, Hillary, and Trinity terms at Oxford. Each term is eight weeks long with five weeks in between. Most Oxford students have three year engagements at University and have a combination of lectures and tutorials throughout the term. A tutorial is a one-on-one class; one professor and one student. Each week the two meet once for about an hour. During the meeting the student presents a 2,000 word essay to the tutor based on readings assigned the previous meeting. For each tutorial, each week the student is required to read between 3-5 books in addition to supplementary articles and resources. Last week I was speaking with a British student and asking about social events. His response, "Socialize!? We're Oxford University students, we don't have time for social events." He was just kidding; I think.

Today I met my Philosophy tutor. We will meet at his house, which is quite a jaunt from my flat. He lives in a hamlet of Oxford, so I'm going to try and get a bike tomorrow to lessen the commute. During our meeting we fleshed out the syllabus, and I am very excited about the course. We are not, as earlier mentioned, starting with Plato and Aristotle. Instead I will be comparing Hobbes and Locke in the first week.

After making my way back to Oxford I went to the Sunday evening service in the Hertford Chapel. After the service I spoke with the director of the College Choir. If all goes well, I am to join them. This will be a wonderful way to socialize with Hertford College students. Tomorrow I am joining the Oxford University Student Choir. More on that tomorrow. Needless to say, after a hiatus, I will be singing a lot.

Emma

"Seldom, very seldom, does complete truth belong to any human disclosure; seldom can it happen that something is not a little disguised, or a little mistaken; but where... though the conduct is mistaken, the feelings are not, it may not be very material."

Emma
Jane Austen

I am resigned to the fruits of Mr. Gutenberg's press for the rest of my time in Oxford. My readings for both tutorials are almost overwhelliming though truely engaging. Since meeting with my British Women Writer's tutor I have been devoted to Emma to which I just finished. I cannot help but muse that at one time or other a young woman, similar to myself, sat curled on the sofa of this very flat with tea, a digestive* with or without peanut butter (though I do recomend the peanut butter), and this very same delightful novel.

To speak breifly on my Philosophy tutorial: I just received my reading list, and my tutor wishes to cover two philosophers per week. I have yet to even begin seeking my books for the course. Oh the excitment, the utter unbelieaviableness!

I fear I am not very coheirent. I also fear this blog will become quite boring now that I am not romping about this beautiful city. Fortunetly, some upcoming engagements should save you, readers, from more Austen quotes and any at all from misters Plato and Aristotle; the objects of my first week of philosophical study.

*Note: Digestives are the most delightful, mild biscuts (cookies) that I enjoy almost everyday.

British Cuisine

This morning I met with my tutor for British Women Writers. She is awesome, the course is going to rock. I bought my first Oxford University Press classics today. Jane Austin's Emma and Persuasion. Both are for my tutorial.

After my meeting I had my first taste of true British cuisine. I got a Cornish Pasty. A pasty is kind of like a mini calzone. Instead of pizza dough the filling is wrapped with a more flaky pastry dough, but not as light as a filo dough. I got a Wholemeal (wholewheat) Vegetable Pasty. The pasty seller told me it was like eating vegetable stew all wrapped up, and it was!

People told me horror stories of British food, but from what I've tasted it's not bad. Most of it is really good. Everyone also told me it would be so hard to be a vegetarian here. Yes, there is a lot of meet. In fact one restaurant is called "Beefeater." There is always a vegetarian option though. People are very sensitive to it here too; always specifying vegan and vegetarian. Also, for all you celiacs out there, there are gluten free options at most eateries here.

I also went to the Museum of Oxford today. It is situated in Town Hall. There I learned that people have occupied this land since prehistory. The same roads used today were created in the 8th century. That is when Edward the Elder first mentioned Oxford in writing. It's pretty old, to say the least.

Got to go read. Since I've met with one of my tutors I have actual work to do now.

Everything You Never Wanted to Know about Oxford

1. The best and worst part of my day is waking up in the morning. It is the warmest part of my day, hence the best part. I also know I will never be that warm again through the course of my day, hence the worst part. Alas, I have to wait a full 24 hours to be completely warm again.

2. Everyone actually knows the linage of the Crown.

3. People rarely say 'thank you;' they more often then not say 'cheers'

4. The University colleges still host formal black tie dinners.

5. About 20,000 students attend the almost 40 colleges within Oxford University.

6. Every college has a bar on/near campus. Hertford College now has the only student managed bar in Oxford (all college bars used to be student run).

7. One in every seventh person in Oxford is a student.

8. The Divinity School Library is the oldest University building in Oxford. Construction began in 1427 (that's 65 years before Columbus sailed the ocean blue).

9. Students do not actually attend All Souls College. Intellectuals are invited there to write and contribute to their academic field.

10. During the English Civil War Parliament met in the Bodleian Convocation room.

11. Going into the Bodleian Library will change your life.

So number 11 isn't a fact, but it's true for me. Today I was introduced to the Bodleian Library, the most beautiful, inspiring place I have ever been. I also received a tour of the Hertford College Campus and the Hertford College Library. You can feel the history here. It wraps it's big, long, timeline-like arms around you and carries you through the city. I love it!

"It is all... like an opera."

As I was walking into city center this morning I could hear the chatter of neighbors, they sky was grey, and there were byciclists riding by. It was just as though I were actually walking through those magnificant BBC comidies that show on public television on Saturday nights. I thought at any moment Judi Dench would pop out.

Yesterday I took the Union Tour. The Union Society was founded in the 1800s during a time when student free speech was suppressed at Oxford. The Society is not affiliated with the University, but it is a student organization. Members and/or presidents include Benazir Bhutto, Tony Blair, and Margret Thatcher. The walls of the Union Library were the canvas for Morris, Rossetti, and Burne-Jones in the 1850s.

Today I got my official Oxford dairy (pocket calendar). After that I also visited the Oxford Castle. The castle tower is one of the oldest structures in Oxford. It was built a thousand years ago by the Saxons. The view from the top of the Castle was not as grand as the view from the top of St. Mary the Virgin Church. I visited the church yesterday and got the most spectacular view of the city. The picture in this blog was taken from the church tower and frames All Souls College in the foreground and New College in the background.

Before I headed back to the flat I stopped by the Oxford Museum of Science. The Museum is the original School of Science. I saw a calculator made in 1666. I think my brother would have appreciated that Museum more than I did. I do recommend the Museum though, there are fascinating gadgets there from centuries ago. Also, they have Einstein's blackboard on display.

Tonight I leave you with a quote from William Butler Yeats. He much more poetically expresses the magic of this city:

"I wonder anybody does anything at Oxford but dream and remember, the place is so beautiful. One almost expects the people to sing instead of speaking. It is all... like an opera." - William Butler Yeats

Oxford University Museum of Natural History

I started the day with mass at the St. Thomas Moore Chapel in the Oxford Newman Center. There are beautiful, historic churches throughout Oxford, but thanks to good ol' King Henry the VIII these are all affiliated with the Church of England. Mass at the Chapel was great though. I really enjoyed the sermon. My most favorite thing about being Catholic is the fact that I can walk into any church anywhere in the world on Sundays and know exactly what's happening. It's like being home even though I'm over four thousand miles away.

This afternoon I continued my Museum Tour. The Oxford Museum of Natural History is actually a museum created by the university. It houses the specimens the university's science departments don't need anymore. It housed portions of Darwin's collections amongst fossils representing the entire animal kingdom. There were rhino heads, a stuffed cheetah one is invited to pet upon arrival, and the largest blue tuna fossil I have ever seen. There I also saw the only surviving soft tissue remains of the Dodo Bird. I wish my nephew was with me, because the Museum as very inclusive for children. He would have loved the dinosaurs that hung from the ceiling.

The Museum is just as famous for its architecture as it is for its natural history. Intricate wrought iron and stone carvings of plants and animals adorn the central room of the museum. Besides the flora and fauna adorning the gables the likeness of scientists such as Aristotle, Newton, and Darwin are chiseled from the pillars of the building. Some of them, such as Darwin, studied at the university.

The Pitt Rivers Museum is adjacent to the Oxford University of Natural History. It houses a plethora of cultural anthropological artifacts. One exhibit highlighted an Eskimo poncho fashioned from seal intestines. It also highlighted shoes and handbags from different periods and places, (I hope some of you have noticed that I seek items such as shoes at museums, i.e. Mongolian boots.) including Manchu bridegroom slippers from the 19th century. I also learned the intricacies of Bobbin lace production.

As the daylight faded I made my way back to my flat; another successful Oxford adventure completed.

The Ashmolean Museum

Yesterday, Saturday January 9th, was AWESOME! The cold day dawned sunny but brisk. I ventured from my flat to explore Oxford. My tutorials don't start until tomorrow, so I have just a few days to wonder the city unhindered.

My plan for the day was to find as many local museums as possible. There are a plethora of cultural avenues, including a multitude of "no fee, donations appreciated" museums. I chose to start the day at the Ashmolean, a museum in north Oxford, then work my way south through the city.

The Ashmolean was huge. From the outside it doesn't look that big (as you can see by the picture). Inside though there were four floors. The fourth floor was a roof top restaurant, but the rest of the building was full of artifacts. It began with the earliest civilizations. There were Grecian vases from 600 BCE. I moved on to Italy before the Romans. There was an awesome quote from D.H. Lawrence, "The Etruscans... were the people who occupied the middle of Italy in early Roman days, and whom the Romans, in their usual neighborly fashion, wiped out entirely in order to make room for Rome with a very big R." The Roman Empire had even reached Oxordshire by CE 70. There was beautiful jewlery, pottery, and art on display from this period that made me beam with pride in my Italian heritage.

I continued through the East meets West exhibit where I found an intricatly carved wooden door from the silk road, block printed fabrics from CE 950, and awesome Mongolian riding boots. For those of you who know my love of shoes I can report that replicas of the boots were not to be found in the museum shop. Also in this exhibit were rooms full of pottery. England is very well know for its pottery. I even found a plate that was created in Oxford, sent to China to be manufactured, then returned to England to be sold (the plate dated to 1755). Outsourcing began with the silk road apparently.

I then spent the rest of my time 'oohing' and 'ahhing' over the bountiful displays of paintings at the Ashmolean. I won't bore you with the details of my art explosion. I will say there was an actual Van Gogh on display which I was close enough to breath on. I almost cried with excitment. I should also note that sometimes the best part of a Bristish art museum is the people in it. Brits are very expressive when veiwing art. They talk to each other about the coloring, the landscape, even the subjects of the painting. Unlike American museums, British museums are not quite.

After the museum, where I must admit I lost myself and spent more time than I expected, I continued into City Center where I joined the county library, replaced some items from my lost suitcase, and found town hall. I learned a bit about British culture during my outing. Oxford is very alive town. You never see anyone walking bythemselves. City Center was full of families. I don't think baby sitters exist here because it wouldn't occur to parents to leave there children at home. There is a wonderful vibrancy that I haven't expereinced in the US.

Getting Here

Hello from Oxford, UK!

I thought the application for Oxford was a challenge. Actually, it's getting here that's the tough part. The following accounts took place between January 5th and January 7th.

Although I had a boarding pass for United Airlines flight 196, I did not have a seat. That meant I had to rely on a missing passenger to get on the flight. This was quite distressing considering I was under the impression I had purchased a ticket. Fortunately for me, Miss Carson missed the final boarding call and I was given her seat. It was the last seat on the plane. This proved to be the corrugated start of a very long journey.

I'll just give the highlights from the trip. When arriving in a foreign airport one does not want to see: plumes of smoke from the wing of a grounded plane, police tape, police with automatic weapons, and bomb sniffing dogs. When I landed in Frankfurt the first sight was a smoking plane. I didn't have time to worry about it though because I had a plane to catch. It was 7:40 AM and my connecting flight to London was at 8:10 AM. Due to the lovely German family I met on the flight over the Atlantic I was the first passenger off the plane. I sprint toward the B gates from the A gates. Unfortunately I was halted by by police tape, police with automatic weapons, and bomb sniffing dogs. The area between gates A and B was closed for no apparent explanation (did it have to do with the smoking plane?... I never learned why the area was closed). Slowly the minutes ticked away. The area finally reopened around 8:10. I rushed through security to the B gates. I made it to the info desk by 8:35 and checked with the airport employee just to make sure my plane was gone. "Yes," she said, "it took off at 8:35." I looked at the clock, it was 8:36.

I tried all day to get onto a flight. The weather conditions were worsening in London (For those of you unaware, England was just smashed with a "blizzard." Apparently blizzard means two inches of snow; literally in London there was two - three inches), and my chances of leaving Frankfurt that day were getting slimmer and slimmer. I had to get out that day though, or else I would be late for my Oxford orientation.

At 7 PM I found myself in the InnerCity Airport Hotel in Frankfurt. I was spending the night in Frankfurt, and I was devastated. All sorts of irrational thoughts scurried through my head. But I finally resigned myself to the thought that I would be late for my Oxford orientation.

I left Frankfurt at 8:30 AM January 7th. I arrived at London City Airport at 8:20 (remember, Germany is an hour ahead of London). After getting a receipt for my lost bag (yes, I lost some luggage), I found my way to Victoria Coach Station. The taxi ride to Victoria Coach Station was AMAZING. I saw the London eye, Westminster castle and Westminster Abbey, and a portion of parliament. From the station I boarded a bus to Oxford, which broke down. Finally, by 12:45 PM I found myself in orientation.

Today, January 8th, I settled into my flat, went food shopping, and made my first pot of sauce. Remember folks, this is just the highlights.

I am having an absolute blast. I wish all of you could experience this magic.

Much love from Oxfordshire,
mj

P.S. The photo is a picture of my street!