Walking Tour of Oxford

Saturday was wet, foggy and cold. Naturally the perfect day for a Walking Tour of Oxford. Despite the weather, it was nice, but it was mostly information I already knew. We started in front of Balliol and Trinity Colleges. Balliol and Merton Colleges vie for the title of oldest college in Oxford. There isn't an exact date for either founding, but both started around the same time in the mid-13th century. Trinity College claims to be the college with the oldest buildings because the College was built around the remains of one of the old monastic communities from the 8th century.

From Broad St. we moved down Turl Street, viewing Exeter and Lincoln Colleges. Across from Exeter College is Jesus College. We went into Jesus College. In the Hall there is a large portrait of Queen Elizabeth I; the college was founded during her reign. Here we talked about living in College and various aspects of the University system in Oxford. Forty-eight prime ministers of England graduated from Oxford University; most of them were president of the Oxford Union during their schooling.

From Jesus College we moved to the Bodleian Library, Divinity School, and the Sheldonian Theater. I've already toured the Bodleian, but I did learn what the inscription is over the door of the Divinity School. It's a New Testament verse in Greek. From here we returned to Broad Street, passed the History Faculty Library and continued down Hollywell Street. We turned down Turf Street and made our way down the ally to Turf Tavern. A portion of the original city wall is still preserved right next to Turf Tavern. It's the wall the Saxons constructed in the 8th century around the time of the city's founding.

Then we wiggled through St. Helen's Passage and ended up under the Bridge of Sighs. We stopped here and talked a bit about Hertford, not only my College but also renowned for being the friendliest college in Oxford. We walked towards St. Mary the Virgin University Church and the Radcliffe Camera. Opposite All Souls College is Brasenose College (the Camera sits in between the two). George Washington's great-great grandfather attended Brasenose. He had an outstanding debt for school books for decades until a group of New York lawyers paid the fee in the 1800s.

We crossed High Street and maneuvered past Oriel College. This is the area of the city where the Rhodes Scholar housing is. Our guide pointed out Bill Clinton's room during his first term as a Rhodes scholar; she also reminded us scholars are chosen not just for their academic abilities but also their outstanding character traits such as trustworthiness and truthfulness. Everyone on the tour seemed to take a piss* at that. From there we moved in to the Christ Church College Meadows. These meadows were preserved in the 1950s when a road was proposed right through the middle of the wonderful open space in the center of the city. Christ Church bought the land and saved it. Since we were overlooking Christ Church our guide of course talked about "Alice in Wonderland" and Lewis Carol, graduate of Christ Church. Alice was the daughter of the Dean of the College when Carol attended. The guide also noted Christ Church Cathedral. The Cathedral, originally a monastic worship center from the 8th century, was proposed by Cardinal Wolsey, the founder of Christ Church. He actually wanted to demolish the structure and build a grander worship space. He fell from power though, and when Henry VIII endowed the College and finished what Wolsey began he did not construct a new chapel. Thankfully it was saved, because it is the site of St. Frideswide's nunnery.

Then we went into Merton College, probably the oldest college in Oxford. The first Warden was recorded in 1267. The Merton College Chapel windows are made from pre-reformation stained glass. Most of the windows were destroyed during the reformation, but the Merton College Chapel was able to save its windows. It also has the oldest library in England, some of the books are still chained to the shelf, and the oldest quad in England. At the memorial on the campus dedicated to Merton students who fought in WWII our guide explained the conspiracy theory that Churchill and Hitler had an agreement. Churchill wouldn't bomb Hindenburg if Hitler didn't bomb Oxford. Neither city was bombed during the war, even though Oxford would be very easy to bomb since it is right along the Thames and Cherwell Rivers.

The tour ended at the Covered Market. It was about lunch time, so I went to Pie Minister in the market and got a Mushroom pie. It was magnificent! I was leary of the mushy peas at first, but they too were delicious with just a hint of mint.

Yay for rainy Saturday walking tours!

*Note: 'take a piss' - one of my favorite British expressions. It's not derogatory, it means to 'make fun of' or 'laugh at'.

Broughton Manor and Warwick Castle

Today was brilliant. I awoke before the sun to get some predawn work done on my philosophy paper before the OPUS excursion. This was the day we Oxford exchange students were journeying to Broughton Manor and Warwick Castle. At 10 AM we gathered outside of Hertford College and off we went into the sunny emerald pasture.

It was bright and cold today, but luckily the sun shone on our merry band all day. The first stop, Broughton Manor, is still inhabited by Lord and Lady Saye. The Great Hall of the Manor dates to the 13th century. William Wykeham, founder of New College, was one of the original owners of the Manor. Between the 17th century plaster mantel and oriental wall paper in the King Room and the tiny spiral stair case, which was the only staircase in the home for centuries, one is not sure where to look first. The Queen Anne room refers to the 17th century queen of King James I. The King room bedded both King James I (17th century) and King Edward VII (19th century). Lord Saye was a parliamentarian during the Civil War and held secret meetings in the upper most room of his manor. Cannon balls were found in the large mote that surrounds the manor from the civil war when the manor was attacked by royalists. Presently, the manor is not heated, even though the family still resides there!

After a satisfying lunch on the bus we had nearly arrived at Warwick Castle. Warwick Castle is very different from Broughton Manor. Instead of a guided tour we were given maps and allowed to roam about the castle grounds. It is much more commercialized than Broughton. I was disappointed to learn that the castle is owned by Madame Tussauds. It did explain the creepy wax figures adorning the castle though. The most discouraging aspect of the castle was the lack of historical information. Even when there was a minimal amount of interpretation one was unsure what in each room was real or reproduction. My time a President Lincoln's Cottage has made me into somewhat of a purest. I'd rather see an empty space than reproduced furniture from all periods in the same room. It was still really fun, and because it was so cheeky we got some pretty funny pictures with the wax figurines. The best part of the castle was the view from the towers. In addition to the castle mound, the oldest part of the castle dating to the 11th century, Guy's tower and Caesar's tower offer wonderful views of the English country side and the magnificent cathedral in the town of Warwick.

By 6 PM we were safely back in Oxford, and I attended to the end of that philosophy paper. As stated above, today was brilliant, absolutely brilliant.

Budding Romance

I should have titled this piece budding romances, but I wanted to you, reader, to be fooled for just a moment. On Monday I retrieved my bicycle (it's pictured above, the beautiful purple little roadster). It has revolutionized my travel. I zip around Oxford now in no time at all. My bicycle and I have a strong bond already.

Today I also returned to the Gloucester Green Market. Since it wasn't snowing the vendors were out in force. I gleaned some beautiful eggplants and finally found some affordable nuts. For some reason nuts and trail mixes are very pricey in the stores here. I found a dry goods vendor who sold them for a reasonable amount.

There was also a cheese vendor at the market. I can foresee a strong relationship forming with my cheese monger. I went a little crazy and got three kinds of cheese, a French mozzarella, a Gruyere (also French), and finally an English red Windsor. You can see them pictured with my grapes. I think the cheese seller and my butcher, John David, will be competing for my affection. Monday I went to see John and got a mozzarella, sun dried tomato, and basil veggie sausage. It was AMAZING.

As Ogden Nash would say, "Food, Food Glorious Food." Obviously the way to my heart is through my stomach after a short bike ride into city center.

"Meandering leads to perfection." - Lao Tzu

Tonight I invite you to walk with me down one of my favorite pavements in Oxford, North Hinskey Lane.

At first North Hinskey Lane does not look too promising, especially on a damp gray day as today. As we begin our stroll there is a McDonald's on our left and some power lines on the right, but almost immediately that is behind us and the first little cottage, "Frog Cottage", appears on the left. It is gated and grassy; a stream lulls behind it. Next comes the "Old Manor House". This house is large and made from brick, stucco, and stone. It is a combination of Tudor, Gothic, and Victorian construction. It is also gated, and the back of the house faces the road. Its grandeur can only be imagined from its illusive broad side. Before we come upon Westminster hamlet the North Hinskey Nature Reserve appears. It is on a hillside containing benches and paths to explore. Perhaps we will traverse those paths on a brighter day. Coming upon Westminster we first hear children playing in the school yard of the village school. The laughter bounces off the stone bridge across from the school. The bridge marks an entrance to the expansive St. George Park. We will come back to the bridge later, literally.

Just across from the bridge is a large manor hidden by a half brick wall and tall shrubbery. The sign reads "Old School". Is it a school, or a residence? Just around the bend from the "Old School" lies a very old looking church. A small graveyard sits in front of the church. Some of the headstones read 1835 and later; the rest are illegible. Across from the church sits the "Cottage Farm". Its bright red door matches the red letter box built into the stone fence surrounding the home. Next comes "Ferry Cottage". It is perhaps my favorite structure on the entire road. The stone is just a bit darker and a trimmed climbing vine outlines the doors and windows. As the name implies, a stream flows through the back yard of "Ferry Cottage".

Just beyond "Ferry Cottage" sits "The Fishes". It is a traditional public house, but it seems slightly swankier. A board outside the venue invites us in to "enjoy a warm Sunday roast". Opposite "The Fishes" is the "Ruskin Cottage". It is a very historic cottage, and marks the start of a small gathering of old cottages. These cottages are stone and still have thatched roofs made of straw. The "Ruskin Cottage" seems very inviting with soft green trim. One of the other little cottages seems more like a green house; hanging baskets adorn the front and plants fill the sills of the windows. The yard is a gated unruly mass of plants and two actual green houses. Next we come upon "Brook House", a regal estate, immediately followed by "Sunny Brook". The bright red holly and yellow Cyprus plants that adorn "Sunny Brook" liven the journey. On this bleak day it is a welcome splash of color. In the distance we can see the road coming to an end at the Oxford R.F.C. also known as The Oxford Rugby Complex. Here we turn around.

We return to the stone bridge across from the "Old School". Crossing the bridge we enter St. George's Park. It's so wet that the path through the fields and tufts of trees is surrounded by water. The land is completely saturated and flooded. We pass an old man walking his dog and a young girl running. We come to another bridge, a more modern bridge. Following the new bridge we encounter an extended family of squirrels. They are feverishly searching for nuts which are now most likely hopelessly submerged. Finally we come to the end of the wooded aisle. We are deposited onto a main thoroughfare in an industrial area. We turn onto a small paved path returning us to St. George's Park. Before we know it we're back at my flat, glad to feel the warmth of the interior after the damp jaunt.

I hope you enjoyed North Hinskey Lane as much as I do. I'll try and take some pictures next time I'm down that way, but for know this literary picture will have to do.

Lake Front Flat

Hello dear friends! I have just completed my first Oxford paper! It was titled "Domestic Virtue: Jane Austen's Nationalism." Thank goodness I finished it. Tomorrow I defend it. My Philosophy paper is due Saturday, so tomorrow it's back to the books.

Monday evening I attended my first rehearsal with the Oxford University Student Choir (OUSC for short). It was wonderful and a great reminder of my affection for large choral singing. On March 9th we will perform Beethoven's Mass in C and his Choral Fantasy. They are magnificent pieces.

Although Sunday was a beautiful day with lots of sun (as the pictures in the last post represent) the past few days have been wet; very wet. This morning I awoke to snow which quickly turned to rain as the day continued. The rivers and streams here are already overflowing, literally. As the wetness continued, the park next to my flat has gradually become a large lake (as pictured); complete with swans.

Today I was very happy to learn that I acquired a bike. This is useful considering the distance to my Philosophy tutor's house. Monday I retrieve the bike, so I will not have it Saturday for the long journey to his home. I think it will prove very useful this semester though.

Two food notes: 1. On Monday I tried a 'jacket potato.' I had high expectations; I was thinking it would be something like a twice baked potato. No, no, all it is is a once baked potato. That's it. You order toppings for it; a little disappointing to say the least.
2. Today I had Millie's Cookies, famous in Oxford. The were wonderful. I had a white chocolate raspberry and an orange chocolate chip. As cookie extraordinaires know cookies have a certain density, and Millie's Cookies were just the right amount of chewiness without being mushy. They are an expensive indulgence but well worth it; especially on a day when a paper is due.

I am exhausted; hitting the sack after a rigorous day of academics.

The Tutorial System

I feel I should take a moment to explain the tutorial system. As my tutor today said, "Oxford is one of the only places that still utilizes the tutorial, because it is a lot of work." There are three terms, the Michaelmas, Hillary, and Trinity terms at Oxford. Each term is eight weeks long with five weeks in between. Most Oxford students have three year engagements at University and have a combination of lectures and tutorials throughout the term. A tutorial is a one-on-one class; one professor and one student. Each week the two meet once for about an hour. During the meeting the student presents a 2,000 word essay to the tutor based on readings assigned the previous meeting. For each tutorial, each week the student is required to read between 3-5 books in addition to supplementary articles and resources. Last week I was speaking with a British student and asking about social events. His response, "Socialize!? We're Oxford University students, we don't have time for social events." He was just kidding; I think.

Today I met my Philosophy tutor. We will meet at his house, which is quite a jaunt from my flat. He lives in a hamlet of Oxford, so I'm going to try and get a bike tomorrow to lessen the commute. During our meeting we fleshed out the syllabus, and I am very excited about the course. We are not, as earlier mentioned, starting with Plato and Aristotle. Instead I will be comparing Hobbes and Locke in the first week.

After making my way back to Oxford I went to the Sunday evening service in the Hertford Chapel. After the service I spoke with the director of the College Choir. If all goes well, I am to join them. This will be a wonderful way to socialize with Hertford College students. Tomorrow I am joining the Oxford University Student Choir. More on that tomorrow. Needless to say, after a hiatus, I will be singing a lot.

Emma

"Seldom, very seldom, does complete truth belong to any human disclosure; seldom can it happen that something is not a little disguised, or a little mistaken; but where... though the conduct is mistaken, the feelings are not, it may not be very material."

Emma
Jane Austen

I am resigned to the fruits of Mr. Gutenberg's press for the rest of my time in Oxford. My readings for both tutorials are almost overwhelliming though truely engaging. Since meeting with my British Women Writer's tutor I have been devoted to Emma to which I just finished. I cannot help but muse that at one time or other a young woman, similar to myself, sat curled on the sofa of this very flat with tea, a digestive* with or without peanut butter (though I do recomend the peanut butter), and this very same delightful novel.

To speak breifly on my Philosophy tutorial: I just received my reading list, and my tutor wishes to cover two philosophers per week. I have yet to even begin seeking my books for the course. Oh the excitment, the utter unbelieaviableness!

I fear I am not very coheirent. I also fear this blog will become quite boring now that I am not romping about this beautiful city. Fortunetly, some upcoming engagements should save you, readers, from more Austen quotes and any at all from misters Plato and Aristotle; the objects of my first week of philosophical study.

*Note: Digestives are the most delightful, mild biscuts (cookies) that I enjoy almost everyday.